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Why is Lawn Aeration Necessary?

Decreases soil compaction – Just as you wouldn’t plant a rose in cement, a compacted soil bed is not favorable to a great lawn either! If you are over-seeding, loosened soil enables grass roots to dive deeper into the soil to find crucial water resources in times of strain. Soil compaction shifts pore space size, circulation, and soil toughness. One way to evaluate the change is by calculating the bulk thickness. As the pore space is reduced inside a soil, the bulk thickness is higher. Soils with a higher percent of clay and silt, which normally have more pore space, have a lower bulk thickness than sandier soils.perfectSOIL

Reduces thatch – Most residence lawns are clear to thatch build up. Left unchanged, it cuts off water, fertilizer and pesticide helpfulness. Central aeration mixes soil with the thatch debris, so soil microorganisms are more efficient to break down the thatch and minimize its accumulation. Thatch is composed of grass stems and roots that build up faster than they break down. Unnecessary thatch generates an atmosphere that is ideal to pests and disorders.

Helps access to the root zone – By infiltrating the soil, you’re helping moisture, air, food (fertilizer) down to the root zone where nutrients are soaked up.

Improves seed germination – Grass seeds germinate quickly in aerated holes as the holes supply them a place to conceal. Grass seed need to be in immediate contact with topsoil to germinate and is not going to germinate in thatch.

Best Time to Aerate Lawn
Just like you wouldn’t mow a lawn that’s wet from rain or use a winterizer fertilizer in June, aeration also needs specific timing. The time of year you take on aeration and how often you aerate relies on grass and soil type. Spring aerated-LAWNand fall are always a good times to aerate. Different soil types need more regular aeration. Clay soil compacts easily and should be aerated no less than once a year. You can aerate a sandy lawn once a year, or you could deal with the job in alternating years. In dry climates, aerating two times a year will boost turf progress and health. If your lawn is regularly driven on or used for parking cars, aerate annually.

Aquarium Cleaning Tips

Maintaining and repeatedly cleaning your freshwater aquarium is important to keep it looking beautiful. A frequent clean-up will also help lengthen the life of your tropical fish. Cleaning up your tank is a relatively easy regime that needs to be carried out roughly in every two weeks.

At first, remove any artificial plants, the filter part, and all of the decorative pieces. These can be put in a mild solution of bleach and water to get rid of algae. Make sure to extensively rinse and soak these things in clear water for the same duration of time they were in the bleach mixture. This guarantees that all of the bleach is removed. If the filter is not really dirty, it can be simply washed in hot water to eliminate any waste stuff. If this does not remove the debris, then it may be time to replace it.

After that, you will need to take out twenty percent of the water from the tank. This is done with a gravel cleaning siphon. The siphon helps to take out waste pieces from the gravel and retain the nitrogen cycle of your aquarium operating properly. If your home aquarium has an underground filter, it will also help to enhance its functioning.siphon

When the water level is low, you can use a dish cleaning pad to clean up the interior of the glass. Do not use soaps or chemicals inside your fish tank. These can be very harmful to your fish. There are chemicals you can get that will substantially hinder algae growth. A higher wattage bulb will encourage algae growth also, so make sure your aquarium tank has a low wattage bulb made especially for aquarium use. Restricting the duration of time the light is on will also support the idea.

Just before swapping the water in your aquarium, put the filter stem back in its spot, filter, plants, and decoration. Using chlorine-free tap water, fill the tank back to the appropriate level. If your tap water is not chlorine-free, you will need to add a substance that gets rid of the chlorine. One more alternative would be to run the water you plan on using forty-eight hours upfront. The chlorine will escape so to speak, and the water will be harmless for your fish.

Continue reading about keeping your water clean here:

Maintaining Water Quality in Your Aquarium

 

Stocking Your Home Aquarium Guidelines

Guideline – Freshwater:
A good principle is one inch of fish per gallon of water but there can be exceptions to this norm. The principle of an inch of fish per gallon of water is dependent on a common square aquarium of normal height. If you have, say a round-shaped aquarium, or a very tall aquarium, put one inch of fish for every 12 square inches of aquarium surface area. Consider some extra space for them to allow for fish growing.

For brand new home aquariums, start with 30% of the total volume of the tank in inches. Hold on a minimum of two weeks before adding fish. 3 weeks should be perfect. Do a 25% water swap just before you add new fish, not after it. Add in batches of 100% of the number of inches of fish the tank actually holds, until the aquarium is filled to 90% of the total volume. Then let the development of the fish you own to occupy the aquarium tank to its potential.

Guidelines – Saltwater
Saltwater possesses much less mixed oxygen than freshwater. The principle we use for saltwater is three inches of fish for every square foot of surface area. Your live rock must be fully cured before you can add any fish or invertebrates to your aquarium. And try not to neglect the curing process, which triggers the nitrogen cycle, usually takes 4-5 weeks. Through this time, you must also carry out weekly 25% water changes.

For new aquariums, start with 25% of the total volume of the tank in inches. Hold on at five or six weeks and analyze the water for ammonia and nitrite. If you do not get a zero reading for either tests, carry out another 25% water change and wait another week. Keep going with the procedure until both tests show zero. Then add not more than 50% of the inches of fish you currently have in the tank (if you currently have four inches of fish, then add two inches more). Do a 25% water replacement prior to adding new fish, NOT right away. And keep in mind to not to add fish more often than every two or three weeks. Fill the tank to 90% of the total volume. Then let the progress of the fish you have to fill the home aquarium to its full potential.

Don’t forget to read about cleaning your fish tank!

Selecting the Fish for your Home Aquarium

When you set up a home fish tank, the exciting part is selecting the fish. There are plenty of fish to select from – cichlid, tetras, goldfish, rainbows, barbs, piranha, and dozens of species of catfish – and we are just talking about freshwater fish for now.

You can have a multi social aquarium tank, where a range of fish live in harmony, or you can have individual aquarium, where just one specific fish exists. Piranha, tiger shovelnose cats, arowana, oscars and other seriously large and predatory fish are held in these types of tanks since they eat everybody else placed in with them.

Cichlids, tetras, barbs and quite a few other smaller fish are fish that can live well with others. Fish who like to chill in communities like to do it with other fish like them. Five glass catfish will behave like a school and spend time together. Make sure you group has fish that have the same pH hardness and character as the other residents. Don’t mix a Cichlid community with a small tetra community, except when you want a fat Cichlid community.

South American cichlids can usually go well with other fish, but not at all times. Discus are very calm, and can live with the small tetras, like neons, cardinals and so on. Angelfish will most likely eat the neons sooner or later. Red-breasted piranha (that are a tetra) can reside with a school of small fish. If the little fish are schooling, the piranha knows there’s no threat, and they’re peaceful. Black piranha eats everything that comes into their tank, and will make a move at your hand, too. Before you buy the fish, watch them in the retailer’s tanks, make sure they have no illnesses and that their fins are wide open and they are swimming positively.

Ultimately, whatever you get, doing the homework is important. When you have done plenty of research, write down what you have and how many. Particularly in a community tank, it helps quite a lot to say not “I have some tiny fish, kind of glowing blue”, or “I have dozen of tetras” or something hazy like that. It suggests when you add fish to your home aquarium tank, we can guide you choose fish that will go along with what you currently have.

African Jewelfish

The African jewelfish (Hemichromis bimaculatus), a beautifully colored fish, sometimes known as jewel cichlid or jewelfish, belongs to the cichlidae family.

The African Jewelfish are omnivorous and they can grow up to 12-15 centimeters (5-6 inches) long. Its color is red with fine jewel-like blue spots and three dark spots on the sides, the first on the opercle, the second in the midsection, the third at the base of the tail.

These amazing fishes are favorite among many fish keepers, but they are inappropriate for typical community aquariums because of their ruthless territorial behavior, especially when breeding. West African Jewelfish are simply beautiful creatures making it worthwhile to consider keeping a tank just for this species.

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The African jewelfish needs slightly acidic water (around pH 6.0-7.8) and relatively warm water (72-82 °F or 22-28 °C) required to thrive in captivity.

Feeding them is pretty straightforward; it will approve most flake or frozen foods and also insects. It does best on meaty foods, so try to provide them some pieces of shrimp or fish as well. Also known to eat plants such as algae, and other weeds. Its tank should have a good power filter on it because it eats a lot, is quite chaotic in making a mess and needs good water conditions.

When the African Jewelfish is ready to reproduce, they will turn a deep red color to let the male find out. The male and female will come together or jaw lock and the male will release sperm on the eggs. The female will then lay the eggs on a flat surface. The female will defend her eggs and will kill anything that comes too close. In a few of days the eggs will hatch and the female still keeps the guard on for the young. The female can breed about every three weeks.